The Cayman Islands - Introduction

Once a few isolated islands populated by just a handful of residents, today the Cayman Islands garner the attention of both the travel and the business world. These islands are straight out of 'Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous,' the kind of destination where businesspeople might take care of banking chores in the morning and scuba dive in the afternoon. Have a good look around at the sunglasses-clad fellow on the next chaise lounge. He may well be in the islands to visit his bulging, tax-free bank account. Two bikinis down, that may be a New York model taking a break from the workaday world or a businesswoman on-island to attend a board of directors meeting of an offshore insurance company.

For travelers, these islands are a destination sought for their underwater attractions, boasting many of the best dive sites on the globe, waters with a clarity second to none, a diversity of dives to interest even the most jaded diver, and a variety of marine life that can't be beat. Vacations here center around those crystalline waters. Divers and snorkelers will find marine playgrounds around each of the islands. Fishermen wrestle with wily bonefish in the shallow flats or struggle with blue marlin, yellow fin tuna, or Wahoo from deep-water charter boats. Those looking for a more leisurely pace enjoy sunset sails or long walks along powdery sand beaches.

Business travelers frequent the largest of the three Cayman Islands, Grand Cayman. Unlike many Caribbean islands, whose commerce is concentrated in inter- island trade, Grand Cayman is a major player in the world market. This tiny isle is the fifth largest financial center in the world, with over 500 banks. More than 30,000 businesses are incorporated here, most of them nothing more than a plaque on a wall somewhere. The reason for the island's position as a business capital is its banking and trust laws and tax- free status. (Remember The Firm? Portions of that movie, based on the John Grisham book, were filmed right here and based on the island's banking secrecy laws.)

The affluence brought about by its position as a financial leader has both pros and cons for the vacationer. On one hand, you'll find the Cayman Islands are a safe destination, a place where you can walk on the beach, drive around in an open-air jeep, and exercise no more than common-sense safety precautions. Beach hustlers trying to hawk jewelry or braid your hair, something many vacationers resent on other Caribbean islands, will never bother you. And you won't feel a sense of guilt staying in a luxurious hotel while local residents live in poverty, a problem in neighboring Jamaica.

For the American traveler, perhaps no other Caribbean islands offer the creature comforts and the feeling of being at 'a home away from home' found here. This is especially true of Grand Cayman. This island, together with its smaller cousins, Cayman Brac and Little Cayman, enjoys the highest per capita income in the Caribbean. It is friendly, safe, and tailor-made for vacationers. Here you'll find all the comforts of the US, as well as an American standard of service in many restaurants, bars, and hotels. The islands' atmosphere is due largely to the many stateside expats who make their home here.

On the other hand, all this security and comfort comes at a price, and a steep one at that. When you step off the plane, 20% of your dollar is lost in the exchange rate. You'll be met by price tags that would be expensive if paid with a fully valued dollar; in paying with a dollar now worth only 80¢, you may find yourself gasping at some figures. There are ways to save money and do Cayman on just about any budget, though, and this book will help make your dollar go as far as possible.
This guide will also help you select the island and the activities right for you. The three islands, although similar in terrain, flora, and fauna, are vastly different in atmosphere. None of the Cayman Islands offers a rollicking experience of around-the- clock excitement, casino action, or frenetic shopping; travelers head to other islands for those experiences. But if you're looking for luxurious resorts, seaside golf, a little nightlife, and a somewhat party atmosphere, Grand Cayman is the place for you. Here, a plethora of water sports operators offer every type of water adventure you could wish for, restaurants and bars line busy Seven Mile Beach, and vacationers from around the globe fill hotels, condominiums, time shares, motels, and accommodations to suit most budgets. The largest of the three islands, Grand Cayman offers several types of experiences, from fun-loving Seven Mile Beach to quiet, little-changed East End and historic George Town.

If you're looking for seclusion, a real getaway, head to the Sister Islands: Little Cayman and Cayman Brac. These islands are true hideaways. You'll find dive operators, fishing guides, and charter boats on these tiny isles, as well as adventure around every bend.

Understand that whatever your choice, you're never limited to just one destination in the Cayman Islands. These isles are much smaller than their easterly neighbors, such as Cuba and Jamaica. You do not need to choose only one area or even one island for your vacation.

Grand Cayman visitors find that they can easily maneuver the entire landmass in one day. The island is shaped somewhat like a wrench, lying on its side with the jaws facing upwards, or north. The handle of the wrench is the East End. A main road circles the entire island, running east from George Town, tracing the shoreline as it snakes through small communities such as Bodden Town and Spotts. This road turns north at the end of the island and begins to trace the northern edge of the island, but you can take a shortcut halfway down the island on the Frank Sound Road, the route to the Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Gardens. When this road comes out on the north side, it travels west to Rum Point, a popular destination with vacationers who arrive by ferry from Seven Mile Beach and enjoy a day of fun in the sun. South of Rum Point, Cayman Kai is a quiet residential area filled with beautiful, expensive homes, and some untouched land that's still good for birding.

Rum Point and Cayman Kai look west across a vast, shallow body of water called the North Sound. Picturing the wrench, this body of water lies between the wrench's open jaws. Where this body of water meets the sea is the home of Stingray City, a must-do for any Cayman visitor, diver or not. Read more about Grand Cayman's top attraction in the East End section of this book.

Returning to the wrench, picture the top jaw of the tool. As it turns away from the handle, this is the location of George Town, the capital of the Cayman Islands and home of the international airport. Most visitors begin their vacation in this clean, orderly community.

From George Town, Seven Mile Beach sprawls to the north, tucked between the sea and the North Sound. This narrow strip of land may be small but it's not short on accommodations and restaurants; this is the heart of vacationland. Finally, Seven Mile Beach ends in West Bay, the clump of land on the westernmost side of the North Sound.

And while Grand Cayman offers plenty of activity for even the most action-packed vacation, don't feel you're bound by this 76- square-mile island. It's a short hop from George Town to either of the Sister Islands for an overnight stay or just a day trip. Also, inter-island flights connect Little Cayman and Cayman Brac, so you can, on any given day; do a little island hopping for a totally different experience. The choice is yours.